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Guide

Do I Need Council Approval for a Patio in Perth?

Yes, you almost certainly need council approval for a patio in Perth. A patio is a Class 10a structure under the National Construction Code, and under the Building Act 2011 you need a building permit from your local government before work starts.

10 min read

A finished flat patio on a Perth home seen side on, the setback between its outer posts and the boundary fence clearly visible

The short version

Yes. Almost every patio in Perth needs a building permit from your local government, because a patio is a Class 10a structure under the Building Code and permits are required under the Building Act 2011 (WA). The application needs engineered drawings certified for your wind classification and a certificate of design compliance from a registered building surveyor. A separate development approval is only needed on top of that when the design varies the R-Codes or the property sits in a heritage or special control area.

Key highlights

  • A patio is a Class 10a structure and needs a building permit in every Perth council.
  • Certified applications are decided within 10 business days; uncertified within 25.
  • A registered building surveyor issues the certificate of design compliance, not the council.
  • Engineering must be certified for your wind classification, usually N2 or N3 in Perth.
  • Development approval is separate and only triggered by variations, heritage or special areas.
  • Unapproved structures can be ordered removed and will surface in a future property sale.

There is no useful size exemption for a roofed structure attached to a house. The old rule of thumb about small sheds does not carry over.

The good news is that the process is well defined and mostly administrative. Here is what actually happens, step by step, and where it can slow down.

What is a Class 10a structure?

Class 10a is the National Construction Code classification for a non-habitable building appurtenant to a house. Carports, sheds, garages, verandahs and patios all sit in it.

The classification matters because it sets what has to be proven. A Class 10a structure has to be structurally adequate and correctly drained, but it does not need energy efficiency, fire separation or habitable-room provisions.

It also means you do not need an occupancy permit at the end. A notice of completion goes to the local government instead, which is a much lighter piece of paperwork.

One consequence catches people out. Because the class is non-habitable, enclosing a patio later with walls and glazing can push it into a different classification, and that is a new approval rather than a variation.

Attached or detached does not change the class. A freestanding flat patio in the middle of the yard and one bolted to the back wall are both Class 10a, and both need the same permit.

Building permit or development approval: what is the difference?

They are two separate systems and people mix them up constantly. A building permit is about whether the structure is safe and compliant. Development approval is about whether the land use and the siting are acceptable under the planning scheme.

Every patio needs the building permit. Only some need development approval as well.

You are pushed into a planning application when the design does not meet the deemed-to-comply standards of the Residential Design Codes, or when the property carries a heritage listing, a character area control or a special control area in the local scheme.

If your patio sits comfortably within the setbacks and open space requirements on an ordinary residential lot, the building permit is usually the only approval you need.

The two building permit pathways in Western Australia

WA runs a certified and an uncertified pathway. For a Class 10a patio, either can be used, and the difference is who checks compliance and how fast you get an answer.

A certified application arrives at the council with a certificate of design compliance already issued by an independent registered building surveyor. The local government has 10 business days to decide it.

An uncertified application asks the council's own surveyor to do that assessment. The statutory period is 25 business days, and the clock resets if they ask for more information.

We lodge certified applications. The surveyor fee is real, and it buys back a fortnight of waiting on most jobs.

What goes into the application

The paperwork is fairly standard across Perth local governments, even though the forms and portals differ. What every council wants is a set of drawings that a surveyor and an engineer have both stood behind.

Owner consent is required. If the property is in joint names, or held by a company or a trust, every owner has to sign.

Strata and survey strata lots often need the strata company's consent as well. On a two-lot survey strata that can be a five minute conversation with your neighbour, and on a larger scheme it can take weeks.

  • Site plan showing boundaries, setbacks, existing buildings and the new structure
  • Floor plan, elevations and a section showing roof heights and falls
  • Structural details and specifications certified by a practising engineer
  • Wind classification for the address under AS 4055 or AS/NZS 1170.2
  • Stormwater disposal details, including soakwell size for the new roof area
  • Certificate of design compliance from a registered building surveyor
  • Signed owner consent, plus strata company consent where applicable

Who issues the certificate of design compliance?

A registered building surveyor, not the council and not the builder. Their job is to check the design against the Building Code and the applicable Australian Standards, then certify that it complies.

They are independent, and they will knock back a design that does not stack up. That is the point of the system, and it is why a certified application moves quickly through council.

The surveyor's certificate covers the design as drawn. Change the design after certification and it has to go back, which is one good reason to settle the drawing before lodgement.

Engineering and your wind classification

Perth metro sits in Wind Region A under AS/NZS 1170.2. That is the mildest of the Australian regions, and it is not an excuse to skip the calculation.

Within Region A, individual sites are classified by terrain, shielding and topography. Most suburban Perth blocks land at N2, exposed coastal and open sites step up to N3, and a site on a rise with no shielding can go higher again.

The classification changes real components. Post sections, bracket types, sheet fixing patterns and footing sizes are all driven by it, and a structure engineered for N2 does not become an N3 structure by hoping.

Uplift governs a flat roof, not gravity. The engineer is designing a chain that holds the roof down through the fixings, purlins, beam and posts into the ground.

R-Codes setbacks, open space and overshadowing

State Planning Policy 7.3, the Residential Design Codes, sets the siting rules for residential development in WA. Your local planning scheme and local planning policies then apply on top of it.

Three things get checked most often on a patio. The setback from side and rear boundaries, the percentage of the lot left as open space, and how much the structure overshadows the property to its south.

A flat roof usually has an easier time here than a pitched one. Lower overall height means less overshadowing and a better chance of sitting inside a setback without a variation.

Where a patio does need to go closer to a boundary than the deemed-to-comply standard allows, there is normally a path. Some councils accept it with written neighbour comment, others require a formal application assessed against the design principles.

Heritage listings and character areas

Older inner Perth suburbs carry more planning controls than the outer growth areas. A property can be on the State Register, on a local heritage list, inside a heritage protection area, or inside a character or special control area under the local scheme.

Any of those usually means development approval is needed before the building permit can be lodged. The assessment looks at whether the structure affects the significance of the place or the streetscape.

In practice a rear patio, not visible from the street, is rarely the problem. A front verandah on a character home is a much more involved conversation.

Check your certificate of title and the local government's heritage inventory before you finalise a design. It is a free search and it saves a lot of rework.

How long does council approval take in Perth?

The statutory clock is 10 business days for a certified building permit application and 25 for an uncertified one. Councils generally meet it.

The clock is not the whole timeline though. It only starts when the application is complete, and a request for further information pauses it.

If development approval is needed first, add substantially more. Planning applications run on their own timeframes, and anything requiring advertising to neighbours or a report to council takes longer again.

Realistically, budget a few weeks from lodgement to permit on a straightforward job, and considerably longer if planning is involved.

What happens if you build without a permit

Local governments do act on unapproved structures, usually after a neighbour complaint or during an unrelated inspection. The options open to them range from a building order requiring compliance work to an order to demolish.

Retrospective approval is sometimes possible. It means engaging an engineer to assess what has already been built, often with parts of it opened up, and it is more expensive and less certain than doing it properly.

The other bite comes at sale time. An unapproved patio shows up in a settlement search, and buyers and their lenders treat it as a liability.

Insurance is the third risk. If an unapproved structure fails in a storm and damages the house, the claim is a much harder conversation.

Who lodges the application, you or the builder?

We prepare the drawings, arrange the engineering, engage the building surveyor and lodge the application with your local government. You sign the owner consent and that is the extent of your involvement.

You are welcome to lodge it yourself if you would rather, and some owner-builders do. The requirements are identical either way.

What we will not do is start work before the permit is issued. There is no version of that which ends well for either of us.

If you are unsure what your council requires, call (08) 6186 7419 and we will tell you what applies at your address.

Done reading? The next step is a measure.

Everything above changes once someone stands in your backyard. We come out, take the real dimensions and quote the actual job.

Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. A patio is a Class 10a structure, so under the Building Act 2011 you need a building permit from your local government before work starts. The application must include engineered drawings certified for your wind classification and a certificate of design compliance from a registered building surveyor.

Not in any practical sense for a roofed structure attached to a house. Very small freestanding structures can fall under exemptions in some local governments, but the thresholds are low and vary. Assume a permit is required and confirm with your council.

A certified application must be decided within 10 business days, and an uncertified one within 25. The clock starts only when the application is complete and pauses if the council requests more information. Add several weeks more if development approval is also required.

It is a certificate issued by an independent registered building surveyor stating that the design complies with the Building Code and applicable standards. It is required for a certified building permit application, which is the faster of the two WA pathways.

Only sometimes. Development approval is triggered when the design varies the deemed-to-comply standards of the R-Codes, or when the property is heritage listed or sits inside a character or special control area. A compliant rear patio on an ordinary lot usually needs only the building permit.

Sometimes, and it depends on your local scheme. The R-Codes control boundary setbacks, wall length and open space, and open-sided structures are generally assessed more favourably. Boundary placement often requires written neighbour comment or a formal variation application.

You can apply for retrospective approval, which means having an engineer assess the existing structure and a surveyor certify it, sometimes with sections opened up for inspection. It costs more than doing it properly and the outcome is not guaranteed. Deal with it before you sell.


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